Our South East Asia Adventure - December 2017

FASCINATING VIETNAM, CAMBODIA & THE MEKONG RIVER WITH LUANG PRABANG, HANOI & HA LONG BAY (SOUTHBOUND)

My husband, John, and I booked this itinerary with Avalon Waterways and I doubt we could have made a better choice; this trip exceeded all of our expectations and provided us with memories we will cherish forever. Besides an excellent assortment of unique excursions, the guides we had for each segment of our tour were exceptional in their knowledge of the history, culture and politics of the places visited, all shared with great enthusiasm and love for their home country.  I must give a special shout-out to our Avalon guide in Cambodia, Pharoth, who was simply awesome; we were so lucky to have him and I will never forget his warmth and delightful sense of humor, or his  love of teaching us about his beloved Cambodia.  Our cruise director, Phiem, was outstanding in every way; he is an Avalon treasure and certainly is a main reason our trip was so flawless and outstanding.  The entire crew aboard our river boat, the beautiful "Siem Reap," did their jobs with a spirit of joy that was contagious and quickly made us feel we were part of the Avalon family; I will always remember them with gratitude and fondness.  This was our first guided land tour and river boat cruise so I have nothing with which to compare it, but I cannot imagine anything better than the trip/cruise we had with Avalon Waterways; it may have been our first time, but it will definitely not be our last.

Below is a day-by-day account of our trip, mostly in pictures, starting in Bangkok and ending in Hanoi.  We began with just the two of us in Bangkok and Luang Prabang, then we were joined by 27 others (5 Aussies, 4 Canadians, 2 Turks, the rest Americans) in Siem Reap, Cambodia. In total,  there were 29 passengers on the river boat, 9 short of a full cruise. After our 2 days in Saigon, only 4 of us continued on with Avalon to Ha Long Bay and Hanoi. For anyone considering taking this land/river boat cruise, I cannot emphasize enough how wonderful this itinerary is and I encourage all who seek to experience unique cultures and beautiful, gracious people to not wait a minute longer - book it!   From my personal experience, if you approach the varied, unique and educational Avalon excursions with an open mind and heart, without judgement, you will have a most fantastic time exploring & discovering the wonders of  SE Asia; trust me, you will have the trip of a lifetime!

Tuesday, December 5, 2017 - Bangkok. Our South East Asia adventure begins!

We arrived in Bangkok mid-morning and after such a long travel day we were more than grateful to be met by an Avalon representative who took us to our hotel, the InterContinental.  The hotel was beautifully decked out for Christmas even though the country is 95% Buddhist, 4% Muslim and the remaining 1% everything else!

Beautifully decorated for Christmas

A very festive, super extravagant and delicious breakfast buffet

Wednesday, December 6, 2017 -  Bangkok & Maeklong.

We were met at our hotel by Andy, a guide with Thai  Private Tour Guide, the local tour operator I chose for our two days in Bangkok since our guided tour with Avalon did not officially start until Friday. We started the day with a visit to the the Maeklong Railway Market, a traditional Thai market selling fresh vegetables, food and fruit, located in Samut Songkrham Province, about one hour southwest of Bangkok. What makes it special is that the market is located on a train line where four times a day the train runs directly through the market. When the train comes, vendors lower their umbrellas and move some of their produce further back off the train tracks and then put it all back once the train has passed.  Locally, the market is known as "Talat Rom Hoop," which translates into  "Market Umbrella Close.😊" The market was bustling with local vendors selling their goods and people slowly walking down the tracks; it is definitely something unique and fun to do when visiting  Bangkok.

Walking on the tracks!

Here comes the train!!

After the railway market we went to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, a floating market located in the Damnoen Saduak District, located about 100 kilometres southwest of Bangkok (close to the Maeklong Railway Market). Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is one of the most popular floating markets in Thailand. Every day many Thai and foreign tourists travel here to shop, eat, and absorb the atmosphere of Thailand water markets that have been like this for over a 100 years.The Floating Market is routinely crowded with hundreds of vendors and purchasers floating in their small rowing boats selling and buying agricultural products and local food, which are mostly brought from their own nearby orchards and today was no different; it was crowded and noisy and so much fun!

We made a new friend!!

We returned to Bangkok and walked through Chinatown, exploring the Yaowarat market, best known for gold and food and the Sampheng market, Bangkok's famous wholesale market where you can find inexpensive clothing, costumes, textiles, sewing supplies, hair accessories, plush and plastic toys, Christmas decor, bags, stationery plus a whole lot more! We ended our market extravaganza at the Pahurat market, an Indian market located near Chinatown in Bangkok. This is the place to come to buy fabrics and to enjoy Indian cuisine; most of the merchants are Indian Sikhs who are involved in the textile trade.  All of the markets were very busy, very colorful and to some extent overwhelming; I really don't know how people conduct business in all that noise and what looked to me like utter chaos. Thankfully, we were just tourists enjoying this chaotic ambiance.😀

Thursday, December 7, 2017 - Bangkok, Day 2

Andy picked us up at our hotel and our first stop was the Royal Grand Palace.  Built in 1782, this sprawling complex served as the royal seat for 150 years and continues to impress with its intricate architecture and fascinating cultural history. In Wat Phra Kaew, located within the grounds of the Grand Palace, and regarded as the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand, we saw the Emerald Buddha, a figurine of the meditating Buddha seated in yogic posture, made of a semi-precious green stone (jade or jasper rather than emerald), clothed in gold, and about 26 inches tall.  We visited Wat Trimitr, better known as the Temple of the Golden Buddah, a Buddha statute that is 5.5 tons of solid gold. South of the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, home of the famous 150 foot long Reclining Buddha and this is truly a sight to behold.  In the afternoon, after a yummy lunch, we took a long tail boat along the bustling Chao Phraya River and its quiet canals passing picturesque scenes of Thai river life.  We then went on to Pak Klong Talad, the wholesale flower and vegetable market; the market colors were amazing.

The Royal Palace

The Emerald Buddha

A portion of Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha

Wat Phra Kaew

The Golden Buddha

The Reclining Buddha

Lunch with a refreshing Thai beer

Scenes along the Chao Phraya River

Our wonderful guide, Andy, walking with us through the flower & vegetable market

Friday, December 8, 2017 - Bangkok to Luang Prabang, Laos

Today was a travel day.  After another fabulous buffet breakfast, we were picked up at the hotel and taken to the airport for our flight to Luang Prabang, Laos, a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Upon our arrival we were met by our Avalon guide for the Laos portion of our trip, Ken, who took us to our hotel, the "Angsana Maison Souvannaphoum," a lovely hotel with the feel of colonial times that was formerly the residence of the Prince of Laos; it was also very conveniently  situated within walking distance of downtown and the French quarter.  Our room was very comfortable and the hotel provided us with lovely robes and a local means of transportation. 😁 We checked in, had a late lunch, and then headed out, by foot,  to the nightly "Night Market."   Seeing all the vendors line this long, busy main street and realizing that they have to set up their street stalls every day to be open for business by 5, and then take it all down at 10 and do it all over again, night after night, is nothing short of remarkable.

Fortunately for me, this was only for taking pictures!

Saturday, December 9, 2017 - Luang Prabang, Laos

We started the day by participating in the Tak Bat, the alms giving (offering of food) ceremony conducted every morning before sunrise.  The Buddhist monks wear their distinctive saffron-colored robes and walk through the streets, collecting food offerings from the locals. Following the procession of monks, we walked through the morning market on the banks of the Mekong river in the center of town.  The rest of the day was spent visiting the main attractions of Luang Prabang: the National Museum, which was formerly the Royal Palace; the Wat Mai, Wat Visoun and Wat Xieng Thong.  We took time out for a very substantial lunch before heading to Ban Xang Khong, a small rural village about a mile outside of Luang Prabang, where we saw silk weavers and how "saa paper" is made by hand from the pulp of mulberry trees. 

Waiting in the early morning drizzle to give alms to the Buddhist Monks

And here they come!

The morning street market

Our first glimpse of the Mekong river!

At restaurant Sonphao we had our first taste of Lao beer  - it was good!

The end product - beautiful silk scarves

Sunday, December 10, 2017 - Luang Prabang, Laos

Today was a free day so we scheduled our own tour to the Elephant Village Sanctuary whose motto is: "Saving elephants through responsible tourism."  We had a "howdah" free elephant ride, which was simply amazing and something we won't soon, if ever, forget.  We also got to feed some baby elephants, which was great fun and resulted in much laughter. We then had a scenic boat ride on the Nam Khan river to see the beautiful Tad Sae waterfall, where you could go for a swim if you were so inclined - we were not!😉 All of this was followed by a simple buffet lunch back at the sanctuary, after which we were driven back to our hotel.  This evening we attended the dinner show at our hotel and had our first exposure to the type of music and dancing that is typical in the SE Asia countries we visited.  This was truly a most memorable day!

It was awesome riding an elephant in the Nam Khan river, a major tributary of the Mekong River.

 Sharing a magical experience!

John tried but I think the baby elephant won!

Our other mode of transportation on the Nam Khan river!

The Nam Khan river

Such a creative way to serve our dinner - on a miniature long boat!

Beauty and Grace

Monday, December 11, 2017 - Luang Prabang, Laos to Siem Reap, Cambodia

Today was another travel day, flying from Luang Prabang to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Once again we were met at the airport by an Avalon representative and taken to our hotel, the Park Hyatt, where we met the bulk of our travel partners and our amazingly wonderful Cambodian guide, Pharoth, and our equally amazing cruise director, Phiem. With Phiem's recommendation we had dinner at the Chanrey Tree and enjoyed our first wonderful authentic Khmer cuisine.

Tuesday, December 12, 2017 -  Angkor Archaeological Site, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Today we started our exploration of the Temples of Angkor starting with the most famous, Angkor Wat, built in the first half of the 12th century honoring the Hindu god Vishnu; with its five trademark towers, Angkor Wat has become the symbol of Cambodia and it is truly awe-inspiring.  

Following Angkor Wat, we visited Banteay Srei, a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and built from red sandstone - it is absolutely stunning.

Our wonderful, smart and very funny Cambodian guide, Pharoth

 

We ended the day with our entire group enjoying a pre-selected dinner at restaurant La Tradition D'Angkor, where we were also entertained by a beautiful  Apsara dance performance. (An Apsara is a female spirit of the clouds and waters in Hindu and Buddhist culture.)

John and the Apsara dancers taking a final bow

Wednesday, December 13, 2017 Siem Reap, Cambodia
Today we continued our sightseeing of the Angkor temples by tuk-tuk - what a fun experience that was! We started at Angkor Thom where we explored the Bayon Temple, one of the few Buddhist temples in Angkor.

 

We then visited the famous Ta Prohm temple. Unlike most of the temples of Angkor, Ta Prohm has been largely left to the jungle allowing us to experience the temple with the same wonder as the early explorers who discovered it; Ta Prohm truly gives you the feeling of discovering something hidden and truly ancient.

Thursday, December 14, 2017 -  Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

This is the day we had been anticipating with great excitement - the day we boarded our river boat and started the river cruise portion of our adventure.  Due to low water levels on the Tonle Sap river, we were not able to board the ship in Siem Reap so we first flew to Phnom Penh and boarded there.  When we did finally see her, we were not disappointed - the "Siem Reap" is a beautiful, 18 suite river boat that provided us with every comfort for our 7 night cruise.  The boat and the entire crew were absolute perfection!

We loved our suite aboard the all suite "Siem Reap"

The best seat in the house!

Friday, December 15, 2017 -  Phnom Penh
Today we had another new experience - an ox cart ride past rice paddy fields and the beautiful Cambodian countryside.

This was not as comfortable as it looks! 😄

And then another new experience this afternoon: a private city tour of Phnom Penh by cyclo! Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s busy capital, sits at the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. It was a hub for both the Khmer Empire and French colonialists. The riverfront is lined with parks, restaurants and bars, and the ornate Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and the National Museum.

The Royal Palace

The Stupa at the Phnom Penh Royal Palace; this is where the ashes of the royal family are kept.

Saturday, December 16, 2017 -  Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Today was a much more somber day, as we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, the site of a former high school that was used by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979 and named Security Prison 21 (S-21).  Records indicate there were over 17,000 people, mostly Cambodians but some foreigners as well, who passed through S-21 and after being interrogated and tortured, most were taken to the extermination camp at Choeung Ek to be executed; detainees who died during torture were buried in mass graves in the prison grounds. It is believed that only 7 prisoners survived S-21 and of the 7, two are still living; we were fortunate to meet one of the two and to hear his story. S-21 was only one of about 196 such prisons created by the Khmer Rouge.  It is estimated that 1.5 to 3 million Cambodians were killed by the Khmer Rouge and buried in mass graves in what are now known as The Killing Fields. 

The memorial to the victims of S-21, located at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek

Hundreds of actual skulls found at Choeung Ek

The interrogation room at S-21

Chum May, one of 2 remaining survivors of the infamous S-21 prison

This evening we were entertained by young people from a local orphanage. The performers were very talented and impressed all of us with their dancing skills.

 

Sunday, December 17, 2017  - Wat Hanchey & Angkor Ban, Cambodia

This morning we visited Wat Hanchey, a Buddhist Temple in Kampong Chan, dating back to the 8th century. Located on a hilltop, we were able to enjoy the beautiful views of the surrounding area and also participate in a traditional water blessing given by local monks.  We were met by some of the local children who quite simply stole my heart with their joyful, sweet faces and their eagerness to hold my hand. 💝

This afternoon we took a walking tour of the rural village Angkor Ban on the banks of the Mekong in Cambodia's north-west Battambang Province; this is one of the few villages in Cambodia not destroyed by the Khmer Rouge; the Khmer Rouge used this village for housing and for storage and here you can see houses on wooden stilts that are a century old and life the way it was throughout Cambodia before the destructive rule of the Khmer Rouge.  Here we had what I consider to be another highlight of the trip, a visit to a school where children ages 5-14 are being taught English. This was a wonderful opportunity for us to interact with the children and it was both a heartwarming and educational experience for all of us.The day before we had purchased school supplies to give to the children and it was such fun seeing the happiness on their faces as they eagerly received our gifts.

The General Store in Angkor Ban

 

A typical home in Angkor Ban

At the English School - John and his students

We all had a turn leading the class; they were very attentive students!

My personal student who wants to be a lawyer; others want to be a doctor, a policeman, or a teacher and one bright young man wants to be a tour guide - that made Pharoth very happy!😁

Monday, December 18, 2017  - Border Crossing

This early morning (middle of the night!) we crossed the border from Cambodia into Vietnam, and somewhere out on the river, in the dark, we had to say goodbye to Pharoth; his time with us had sadly come to an end. Once we docked and  cleared customs, we met our new Avalon guide, Tien, and  headed out to the Chau Doc market, very conveniently located within walking distance of where we docked.  As are seemingly all the markets in SE Asia, it was hectic, colorful and stimulated all of our senses!

All markets were selling items for Christmas

This afternoon we were in for another fun means of transportation, a very large motorized sampan, which we took on a scenic cruise through the backwaters of the Mekong. 

Typical houses on stilts along the banks of the Mekong river

Tuesday, December 19, 2017 - Walking tour of Long Khanh A and Cu Lao Gieng Excursion

We started out visiting a village in the Mekong Delta (Long Khanh A), where weaving is a well-preserved tradition. We spent time exploring the many houses in the village and met a Buddhist nun who chanted for us. We then went to the home of a man who had been a nurse in the Viet Cong army; he and his wife were delighted to show us their home. We took motor carts to a village that made scarves and to the village of Cu Lao Gieng, where a skilled family works together to hand-craft sampans.  It was another interesting day absorbing local culture.

Loving our new scarves! (the head gear is kinda cool, too!😉)

The best cruise director ever!!

The hard work of making a sampan

Tien showing us how it all fits together

 

Wednesday, December 20, 2017 -  Ben Tre, Vietnam

Ben Tre Excursion - Our last day in the Mekong Delta. We took a sampan to the village Ben Tre, known as the town about which a US Army major declared during the Vietnam war  "It became necessary to destroy Ben Tre to save it." Here we got to sample some of the local libations, including snake wine!😛 We saw how they make coconut candy and then were entertained by local musicians; there was also plenty of time to do some shopping.

 

Girls wrapping the coconut candy

John bravely having a sip of the snake rice wine!

I wasn't quite that brave - just tea and fruit for me!

You could always count on a friendly wave and a big hello from the locals, young and old!

This evening, we cruised into Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) where we docked for our last evening on board the "Siem Reap."  Before dinner, we were entertained by several members of the crew and we got to join in the dancing fun - it was a delightful evening.

Besides being a superb cruise director, Phiem also sings and plays the guitar!

Our first glimpse of Saigon

Thursday, December 21, 2017 - Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam

Today was the day we regrettably had to disembark and say good-bye to the "Siem Reap" and her wonderful crew.  We took a motor coach into Saigon for a walking tour of the city's famous landmarks, including a stop for a morning beer at the famous Rex hotel roof-top bar, which is where the U.S. military gave daily briefings, called the "Five O'Clock Follies," to journalists during the Vietnam War.  We wandered through the enormous Ben Thanh Market, the oldest and largest market in Saigon and we visited the War Remnants Museum where, not surprisingly, the war crimes of the French and Americans were highlighted.  

Nothing says good morning like a nice cold beer!😀

Our engaging guide in Vietnam, Tien

 

 

 

For lunch, we participated in a cooking class held at the Saigon Culinary Arts Center, where we learned how to prepare different local dishes and then got to eat what we prepared! 

Friday, December 22, 2017 - Cu Chi Tunnels, Cu Chi district of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Today we visited the Cu Chi Tunnels,  an immense network of connecting underground tunnels built by the Viet Cong.  Viet Cong Soldiers used these underground tunnels to house troops, transport communications and supplies, lay booby traps and mount surprise attacks, after which they could disappear underground to safety.

We had some light-hearted fun taking pictures but it really was very sobering to see these tunnels knowing people lived in them for months at a time.

Saturday, December 23, 2017 - Saigon to  Ha Long Bay

Today 4 of us continued on with our Avalon adventure, departing Saigon for Ha Long Bay, flying first to Hanoi and then driving to Ha Long Bay, a trip that normally takes about 4 hours; we had some traffic issues so we did not arrive at our hotel, the Ha Long Bay Novotel, until early evening.   For this portion of the trip we had a new Avalon guide, Tri,  who was very knowledgeable and informative regarding the current economic and political life in North Vietnam.  

Sunday, December 24, 2017 -  Ha Long Bay

Today was another highlight of our trip - Ha Long Bay, designated in 1994 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located in the Gulf of Tonkin in northeast Vietnam, very near the Chinese border; it is truly both magical and mystical and pictures do not have the ability to capture its ethereal essence.  We boarded a boat reserved just for the 4 of us and cruised around some of the over 1,600  limestone islands and islets that covers an area of 600 square miles; truly a picture taking paradise! We made one stop to see the  stunning Thien Cung grotto (cave).  Back on board we were served a very tasty and substantial lunch, before returning to the wharf.  On the way back to Hanoi, John ran into a substantial Happy Buddha and got to rub his rotound belly for good luck; all in all, another fabulous Avalon excursion and amazing day on our SE Asia adventure!

Magical and Mystical Ha Long Bay

 

All the boats lined up at the base of the entrance to the Thien Cung Grotto

 

I agree with the sign: this grotto (cave) is heavenly and absolutely stunning!

A fabulous spot to get another picture with my honey!

John's good fortune is now guaranteed to continue!

Upon our return to Hanoi, we checked into our last hotel on this trip, the Intercontinental Westlake.  All our hotels had been decorated for Christmas with beautiful Christmas trees but this tree was indisputably  my favorite; so unique and very Vietnamese!

Monday, December 25, 2017 - Merry Christmas!! Hanoi, Vietnam

Today was a full and fun day.  We departed the hotel at 8:30 for a city tour. We started at the Ho Chi Minh  mausoleum complex that included the humble cottage from which "Uncle Ho" ruled Vietnam until his death in 1969. We visited the infamous "Hanoi Hilton" (Hoa Lo Prison) whose most famous "guest" was John McCain  and the Temple of Literature, which is over 900 years old and is Hanoi's first university.  We had lunch at the KOTO restaurant, a non-profit restaurant and hospitality program that trains local street children in restaurant skills they can use to find a job and build a stable life and, I have to say, the food and service were excellent and I envision a bright future for these hard working, charming young people.  We followed lunch with a very exciting😱 cyclo ride through the fascinating Old Quarter, 36 ancient streets where street merchants trade as they have for centuries.   Late in the afternoon we attended a performance of Hanoi's renowned Thang Long Water Puppet Show, a traditional art form dating back to the 11th century. After the show, we walked through the Old Quarter (much less adrenaline producing than the cyclo ride!) and observed yet again the seemingly organized chaos that exists in all the SE Asia cities we visited. We ended this day with a wonderful dinner at the Wild Lotus restaurant.

The changing of the guards at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Our super Avalon guide, Tri

The entrance to Hoa Lo Prison, aka "Hanoi Hilton"

The North Vietnamese description of how American pilots were treated in captivity.

 

A cyclo ride through the "Old Quarter;" definitely not for the faint of heart!

The puppets at the Thang Long Water Puppet Show

The "puppeteers"

Still doing it the way it has been done for centuries

Fancy that, an authentic Vietnamese nail salon😉

Of course the goods are made in Vietnam!

It is amazing how much the Vietnamese can load on their bicycles!

Tuesday, December 26, 2017 - Hanoi, Vietnam

Our last day in Vietnam and the last day of our fascinating SE Asia adventure.  We spent the day taking a walk in the neighborhood, walking along side West Lake (Ho Tay), until we reached the Tay Ho Pagoda, perhaps the most popular place of worship in Hanoi. Throngs of people come to this Buddhist temple the 1st and 15th of each lunar month in the hopes of receiving good fortune from the Mother Goddess, to whom the temple is dedicated.

The very lovely InterContinental Westlake

 

Many sights of local life on our scenic walk along side the lake

Left in the picture is the InterContinental; it really has a lovely setting.

The Tay Ho Pagoda

 It can't hurt to ask for additional good fortune especially at the Temple to the Mother Goddess!

For our final dinner in SE Asia, we thought we'd mix it up a bit so we ate in the Italian restaurant located in the hotel; it was both romantic and delicious!😋

 

Yes, that is a halo over my head!😇

Wednesday, December 27, 2017- Hanoi-Taipea-San Francisco-Reno
Today we left Vietnam and ended our SE Asia adventure, filled to overflowing with treasured moments and beautiful memories.  Tri picked us up at the hotel and stayed with us until we had to go through security, all the while handling everything and making sure we knew where to go and what to do; I don't think we could have navigated the Hanoi airport without his expert help. Heartfelt thanks and gratitude to Avalon Waterways for this excellent itinerary, the amazing excursions, the fabulous "Siem Reap" and the  incredibly wonderful tour guides that escorted us throughout; I don't know where our next adventure will take us but if that adventure includes a river boat cruise, you can be assured we will be cruising with Avalon Waterways!  

Bon Voyage!!